Assembly Instructions for 3D Printed NodeBox Based On Skeletor

-- April 17, 2024 by Stephen NY4NC

Cross-tip screwdriver;
drill-driver;
needle-nose pliers;
tack hammer.
Recommended is a right-angle drill attachment for hex-bits, DeWalt DWARA100 or equivalent with hex drive drill and screwdriver bits;
1/16 inch and 5/16 inch drill bits.

Item #329004 #6 1/2" Sheetmetal screw
Schurter AC Power Entry Module
HP DPS-1200FB power supply for under $50

The Power Panel has the tightest fit so it should be the first part installed.

Power Panel:

TARPN Power Panel and TARPN Power Support;
HP Power Supply;
Meanwell Power Supply;
16 x 5/8” Linoleum Nails, brass plated, Hillman 532425 or equivalent;
#6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent;
IEC 320 C14 Panel Mount Plug;
screws and bolts for the plug.

Insert the C14 Panel Mount Plug in the TARPN Power Panel’s opening shaped like the plug.
Fasten with nuts and machine screws.
Using two 3mm x 10mm machine screws, fasten the Meanwell power supply to the Power Supply Support on the short side so that the power supply terminals will face toward the rear when the support is installed.
Slide the Power Panel into the opening on the side of the Skeletor such that the opening for the HP power supply will be on the bottom-right side with the power supply opening toward the rear of the rack when finished.
Use a pencil to mark the holes in the tabs on the level above the rack and the holes in the panel on the bottom.
Remove the rack.
Use a 1/16” drill bit to drill holes half-way through.
Slide the Power Panel back into place.
Use the needle-nose pliers to push nails through the tabs into the holes on the inside of the rack.
Use three screws to attach the panel on the bottom of the rack.
Slide the HP power supply into the panel with the release tab toward the bottom. The face of the supply should be flush except for the fan, handle, and release tab.
Slide the Power Supply Support over the 12V end of the power supply until it hits the stop. Proper orientation will have the Meanwell toward the top with the terminals facing the same way as the terminals on the power supply.
Position the support so that the power supply is level.
Use a pencil to mark the holes in the support.
Remove the support and power supply.
Use the drill to drill part-way through the plywood.
Place the Power Supply Support back in and fasten with four screws.
Insert the HP power supply

Battery Box:

Battery Box, left and right parts;
#6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Pencil,
drill with 1/16” drill bit,
Screwdriver.

Looking at the frame from the rear, insert the right-hand battery box part on the right as close to the frame as you can get it.
Mark the hole with the pencil.
Drill a hole part-way through the plywood.
Fasten with a screw.
Hold the battery in place while you slide the left part of the battery box in place.
Mark hole,
drill, and
fasten with #6 screw.

Fuse Panel

Fuse Panel;
WUPP ST Blade Fuse, RV Truck DC 12-24V;
Nuts and bolts;
#6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Fasten the WUPP fuse box to the panel with four machine screws and nuts.
Screw heads should be on the fuse side and nuts on the back of the panel where the nut shaped depressions are.
Slide the panel into place on the back of the frame toward the left side of the bottom shelf, at the end where the power supply’s AC cord connects.
Mark the holes, drill and fasten with screws.
Use a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill a hole adjacent to the positive and negative terminals on the fuse block.
This will be used later as the wires from the HP power supply will go through them to reach the terminals.

Side panels:

Top/bottom panels and middle panels if needed;
16 x 5/8” Linoleum Nails, brass plated, Hillman 532425 or equivalent;
#6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Set one panel in place.
Mark the hole locations on the center layer panel or layer panels in the case of a box with more than two layers.
Drill a 1/16” pilot hole part way through.
Use a pair of pliers to push the nail into the holes in the middle layer(s).
Do not hammer them in all the way, but leave approximately 1/4” showing. These will lock the middle tabs in place.
Slide the panel onto the nails. Mark the holes, then drill pilot holes part way through and use the screws to attach the folded over tab.
Repeat for the other top/bottom piece for each side, interlocking the tabs on the parts to help align everything.
For a middle panel, it is a little different.
Slide the middle panel in place and mark the holes.
Drill a 1/16” hole at the marked locations part-way through.
Place nails in holes in either the top or bottom level holes. put the middle panel in place.
From the inside, push the nails into the holes that you did not use to lock the middle panel in place.
Tap them in with a tack hammer or push with the side of the pliers until the head is even with the tab.

Note, For a one-radio node and for a three radio wide node, no middle panels are needed. Middle panels are used when there are more than two levels to the box.

Raspberry Pi Faceplate

Raspberry Pi Faceplate;
Optional fan, 60mm x 10mm; Optional fan grid;
M3-50 x 16mm machine screws;
M3 nuts;
#6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Attach fan to the recess in the panel with four M3-50 machine screws and nuts. The label should be visible from the bottom if you want the fan to blow down on the Raspberry Pi.
Mark the holes.
Drill a pilot hole through the marks part-way through the plywood.
Fasten the panel in place with the #4 x 1/2” screws snugging it up but not pulling the screw head through the hole. If desired, #6 x 1/2” screws may be used instead.
The wires for the fan will attach to one of the terminals on the fuse block 12V to run at full speed or to a 5V terminal to run quieter at a slower speed.

Radio Faceplate:

Faceplates for the radios you will be using (Tait, Kenwood, and Yaesu radio faceplates available), one per radio;
Suitable radio mounting screws;
(10) #6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Use screws provided with the radio to fasten the radio to the faceplate. There may be an arrow on the side. That should be to the top of the radio.
Insert radio to the left of the front side above the Raspberry Pi tray faceplate.
Mark the holes.
Drill a pilot hole part-way through the plywood.
Insert and tighten #6 screws until snug.
If using a double-wide, repeat, placing the radio faceplate to the right edge of the opening and fasten as above.

NinoTNC faceplate(s):

Vertical NinoTNC faceplate for single-wide nodes, one for each radio or dual NinoTNC faceplate, one for two radios or single horizontal NinoTNC for radio on the same shelf as the Raspberry Pi;
(4) #6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Place NinoTNC faceplate in shelf space ensuring ridges fit between the shelf layers above and below.
Mark the holes, drill a hole with the 1/16” bit part-way through the plywood.
Fasten NinoTNC faceplate with four #6 screws.

Note: It may be helpful to attach one radio or the Raspberry Pi faceplate on the left, then attach the NinoTNC faceplate, and then attach the radio so that the NinoTNC will act as a spacer for the radio. On second and higher shelves, the same applies. Fasten radio, fasten NinoTNC, fasten second radio. Double-wide boxes will use a Single-wide NinoTNC Faceplate if a radio is on the same level as the Raspberry Pi or Dual-NinoTNC Faceplate on the second, third, or higher levels, located in the center between the two radios.

Top Panels:

Top Panels, four for single-wide box, eight for double-wide box;
16 x 5/8” Linoleum Nails, brass plated, Hillman 532425 or equivalent;
#6 x 1/2” cross-tip (Philips) pan head sheet metal screws, Hillman 127049 or equivalent.

Take one panel. Place it on the top at the front or rear at the left or right edge.
Use a pencil and mark the holes in the tabs for the center support.
Drill a 1/16” pilot hole part-way through the plywood.
Insert a nail in each hole and push it in with the pliers or use a tack hammer to drive it in until there is about 1/4” showing.
Slide the panel tabs over the nails.
Mark the screw holes.
Drill pilot holes.
Do not fasten the panel at this time.
Take another panel.
On the opposite side (front or back) of the piece you already installed, place the panel so the tabs interlock.
Mark holes and drill as above.
Place nails as above.
Place second panel and mark holes.
Drill pilot holes but do not fasten at this time.
Repeat with the next pair, placing them against the first pair and marking the holes as before.
Remove and drill pilot holes, placing nails as before.
Repeat until all panels are placed, marked, and nails placed.
Go back and fasten all panels in place with the #6 x 1/2” screws.

Note: It may be helpful to place, mark, and drill the top panel holes before installing the radio and NinoTNC faceplates so that there will be room to get to the center support strut from the layer below if needed.